There was evidently only one person on Jean Paul Gaultier's mind when designing his 2012 Haute Couture Collection; Amy Winehouse, the troubled chanteuse who passed away last summer. Models dominated the runway in Winehouse's trademark beehive hair style, winged eyeliner and drawn-on beauty spot. A nod was given to the singer's collaboration with Fred Perry with collared and piped tshirts and tennis dresses making an appearance. Some models even sported Winehouse's favourite accessory; the cigarette.

Gaultier is no stranger to controversy. After all, he was the first designer to promote runway models who were full figured and curvaceous, elderly or tattoo'd and pierced. However, his tribute to Winehouse has not been well received by all. While the collection did appear to be a genuine and sentimental mark of respect, it has left a sour taste in the mouth of those close to  her.

Amy's father, Mitch Winehouse, tweeted “We don’t support the Jean Paul Galtier (sic) collection. It’s in bad taste."

Gaultier always showcases pop culture and icons, and this year was no exception. Tough chic appeared to be the mantra, in fitting with Amy's fiercely individual style. Models sported sequin pencil skirts, spray on lace leggings, leather baseball jackets and signature Gaultier corsetry. There was also a rockabilly, almost pirate-esque vibe, emmulated through heavy trench coats and biker leather, fitted bustiers, obi belts and crosshatched black and red sequins on Joan Smalls. Of course there was also a hint of naughtiness, with bed head hair, asymmetry and peek a boo lacy lingerie.

Hairstylist Odile Gilbert recreated Winehouse's signature beehive in variations of colour; skunk streaked black, vibrant orange, candy floss pink, blue and green.

Model of the moment, Andrej Pejic, the Serbian born Australian male model with the most beautifully feminine features, also made an appearance on the runway.